Made In Britain - Construction and Evaluation

Patterns

Before creating my patterns for my coat, I began my costruction sheet. Firstly I composed a basic coat pattern following instructions given. I ensured the armhole was lengthened by 2.5cm allowing extra room to the garment when finished. I extended the length of the coat to fit my design. To widen the coat, the sides were cut into two L shaped strips and the ends were swung 5cm outwards creating a slight flare. This was done for both the back and the front of the pattern. Every line and curve had to be placed accurately to enable the patterns to be cut perfectly.  Then I had to create two different patterns for the front as although the design was the same size and symmetrical for the left and the right sides, they consisted of different shapes within the garment, in two different shades.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The pattern pieces were then created from the construction sheet as neatly as possible, and then they were cut and annotated. This included the sections of each part of the coat, the top middle and bottom left and right sides, the top and bottom back pieces, the facing and the lining. The arm patterns were also constructed.

                                                 

Samples of pockets were made and I also made a toille with a collar to see how the collar would look on the body of the coat. I had to determine the best size and shape for my design, and how I could make it stand up freely if desired. When I was happy with my collar, I proceeded to cut out the patterns from the fabric. ( I had to wait dto purchase my fabric as I was running low on money and my loan was not yet due. This then only gave the whole class two weeks to construct their coat which is a very small amount of time to make a high end garment, in my opinion).

The fabric I chose was not the original one I had desired. I had hoped to use a pure woolen heavy material, but the price for such fabric is very expensive, so I found an alternative and used the reverse side of the cloth as this looked more appropriate. My patterns were all done, however some of the pieces were the wrong way around, so I simply stated this on the required pieces. 

Once the fabric was cut, I interfaced every single seam edge of the garment in order to reduce stretch and fraying. The side pieces were all stitched ready for pockets to be marked and positioned. I found this quite easy, the welt pocket especially. When you first learn how to make a welt pocket, it can be very confusing, but fgiven time, this is really one of the easiest pockets to construct, only care must be taken to accurately measure were the pocket is cut in the centre, otherwise the pocket will not be perfect.

When the welt was put in place, and turned through to the right side of the coat, the pocket bag was made. This was first interfaced and then sewn onto the ends of the welt flaps, which were inside the coat. The edges were stitched and the pocket was finished. 

I made the lower welt flap larger than the top as this was in my design. I thought it fwas better as it appeared to enable a hand to slip into the pocket much easier than if the welts had been the same size.

 The facing was attatched to the sides and the label was sewn in.  Of course this was fully interfaced giving the edges alot more strength. 
The body of the coat was then constructed and before the arms were attached, cuff straps were sewn into the arm seam. Attaching the arms can be a nightmare at times, especially with fabrics like satin. However the material was easily manipulated and I found the arms of the coat were very easy to attach. The lining however was a different story as it was made from duchess satin.